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The Cheeses of Italy
by Deborah Mele
Although there are over 450 different recorded cheeses made in Italy, most people are familiar with just a few, whether it be soft, moist mozzarella, sharp, oily provolone or dry, flaky parmesan. Italian cheeses are very regional, and to appreciate them fully one must understand the geography and the culture of the country. Each region in Italy produces various specific varieties from the northern Alps to the boot and islands, and when it comes to cheeses, regional exclusivity is the norm. If you are visiting a city in Tuscany or one in Sicily, you should expect only those cheeses produced from that region to be sold with only a few exceptions.
Cheese production in Italy began as a need to preserve milk and to provide a source of protein for workers, travelers and families throughout the winter months. I will discuss the most famous varieties of Italian cheeses that can be readily found here in the United States, as well as tips for storing cheese to best retain it's freshness.
How to Keep and Serve Cheese
It is best to keep cheese in a dark, humid, ventilated room, at a constant temperature of about 45-50 F. If you are refrigerating your cheese, it is best to store in the vegetable section in perforated paper or cheesecloth to allow air to go through. Always try to serve cheese at room temperature to allow the full flavor to develop.
Here are a few popular Italian cheeses found in the US:
Parmesan - Production of true parmigiano-reggiano is carefully regulated and can only be made in a certain zone around the city of Parma between the months of April and November. To ensure you are buying "real" parmesan, look for the words parmigiano-reggiano stamped all over the rind. Parmesan is a grainy, firm cheese with full flavor, and well-aged cheese will be light straw colored. Parmesan is great just simply paired with fruit or good crusty bread, and makes a tasty topping for most pasta dishes. When cooking with parmesan, often the simpler recipes such as Risotto Parmesan allow the flavor of the cheese to shine through.
Gorgonzola - This cheese originates from the Po valley in Lombardy. This is another protected cheese with strict regulations, and is now produced year round. Gorgonzola is a soft, creamy cheese with blue or green veins or flecks running through it. It has a strong pungent flavor, so a little goes a long way. I like to use this cheese in a cream sauce to top gnocchi in Gnocchi Gorgonzola, or in combination with other Italian cheeses in a sauce for Pasta With Four Cheeses.

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